Armhole bead for garments



March 20, 1928.

F. J. DUX

ARMHOLE BEAD FOR GARMENTS 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed March 1927 Mgrch 20, 1928. 1,663,042

F. J. DUX

ARMHOLE BEAD FOR GARMENT-S Filed Mar'oh 1 1927 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Mar. 26, 1923.

units star FRANK J. DUX, OF UTICA, NEW YORK.

ARMiroLE iEAD non Gasman.

"Application filed. March "15,1927. Serial No. 175,564.

positiveb'reak line in the lowermost part of.

thearmhole of a garment, and toprotect the sleeve and body lining of the garment from wear as well as to eii ect'ainore perfect fitting coat, as hereinafter explained. To this end, there is'ei'nployed. ahead which is made by folding along-the longitudinal center a tape and enclosing in the fold a cord that will not stretch. The tape is made of a'fa'bric material that will stretch slightly. This is sewed to the garment in such manner asto extend from about the middle of the back of the armhole to about the middle of the front thereof. At the terminal points it will. be anchored by stitching by hand or machine. Although the head, as just stated, extends only about the lower half of the armhole, it may be continuous for the whole way round, the upper half being merely ornamental or forming sort of binding edge to armhole sleeve lining. I

The tape is sewed or seamed so as to be snug under the armhole. To this end it will cover a little more than its own distance from the middle of the back of armhole to about the middle of the front thereof thereby causing the head or folded part of the tape to be the shortest member of the matei'ials, sewed together and faced towards the shortest radius around the armhole, after the lower half of armhole seam has been pressed over into sleeve. The head being therefore at the peak of the armhole or junction between sleeve and coat, will effect a line of demarkation at the bottom of arm hole as well as a guide to fell or sew sleeve lining to at the top o'f the armhole. As stated above, the head will. not stretch, although the sewed part of the tape will to a limited extent. This construction will cause all the other materials of the garment to hang or be suspended from the head, which construction will prevent the materials of the garment below the armhole from sagging, balling or rolling and effect a more perfect chest to the garment, thereby enhancing its general appe'arance'both on the inside and outside. Inasmuch asthe bead'is sewed to the armhole partof the garment in such manner as to cover more distance around armhole than its own length, being held especially short or s nug' around lower h'alfof armhole; that is by being held short, I mean, that the cloth to which the bea d is sewed is filled in while head is held tight, whereby especially' at the lower half of front of the armhole said head will cover more than its own length than that of the mate'- rials 'to. which it is sewed, whereby it"will tend to draw together thecloth forming the chest part at the front of the armhole, to efiect a more perfect chest. Tli'efarmhole seam will be pressed over or brokenalong. its lower half and its upper half liegflat as is customary in making coats, whereby the head will be held in the center between sleeve and coat part of the armhole and being the'shortest of the materials that go'to form the armhole will naturally have a tendency to remainso positioned. p v j p i The object will be understood by referring to the drawings in which:

Fig. 1 'is a fragmentary view of a coat looking at the inside lining thereof and showing'the novel armhole construction.

Fig. 2 isa side elevation of ayestshowing the novelarmhole' construction applied thereto. I i

Fig. .3 is "a detail enlarged view of the bead employed. a I I Fig. 4: is adetail enlarged viewpartly in section and partly broken awayshowing the arrangementof the bead with r'e-spect' to the fabric andtrim ofthe garment. y j

Fig. 5 is a side view of the 'forepart of a vest showing bead and container applied thereto and before sewed to liningand turned. rights'ide out and'the back part of the vest removed.

Fig. 6 is a side view of the forepart of the vest showing bead and container ,applied thereto. parts-bein'gbroken away.

Fig. 7 is a side view of the forepart of the vest showing locationof bead and container in the garment after the proper s w ing and placing of lining, back part of vest being removed. V p j V v 8 is a view of the vest showing the inside of same laid against the outside and with back part or vest removed and bead and container applie d' in; position.

nerer'ringmore particularly to the draw- I ter part extends or projects into the armholeings, a garn'ient suit as a coat shown in Fig. 1 or a vest as in Fig. 2 is represented by 1 and 1 respectively. In the case of coat 1 there will be the usual sleeve 2. In making coat 1 there will be the outer material 5, canvas 6, felt padding 7 and the inside lining 8 disposed in successive layers from outside to inside of the coat in the order named. Likewise, the sleeve has the outside mate rial 10 of same pattern as material 5 of the coat, and inside lining 12.

Thecloth 5 of the coat, and the cloth 10 of the sleeve are folded back along their respective edges and seamed together at the location of the armhole 11 and continuously around armhole, thereby sewing sleeve 2 and coat 1 together. Thereupon, canvas 6, padding 7 and lining 8 of coat 1 are baste'd around armhole 11 and to outside material or cloth 5 and fastened to a *mhole seam 12 of coat 1 and sleeve 2 by hand stitching, which is called ordinarilyin theart, serging. After the outside material 5 of coat 1 and inner trim comprising canvas 6, felt padding 7 and lining 8 thereof are basted together and the armhole .serged or hand stitched, bead 13 is applied. As before stated, bead 13 is formedby folding along its longitudinal center a. tape 1% and enclosing in the folded part a cord 15, or the bead 'may be formed by cutting apiece or material on the bias, folding it longitudinally with the cord disposed in the folded part and then stitching said cord firmly between the folded part of the material. The cord and material will be stitched together or fastened in any suitable way as by Weaving, whereby to effect an edge contiguous with the cord that will 'not stretch and an opposite part that will stretch or give slightly on the othelw Tape 14.- will be sewed along line indicated'at 1% and adjacent bead 13 to armhole 11. The stitches will go through tape'la, lining 8, felt padding 7, canvas (5 and outside material10ofsleeve and outside material 5 of coat. Tape 14: is sewed in such manner that head 13 will. be parallel with the seam 12 formed at the junction of coat 1 and sleeve 2 at armhole l1. However, canvas 6', padding 7 and lining 8 will be between tape 14 and armhole seam 12 of coat and sleeve. Sleeve lining 12' is felled or sewed into place next adjacent tape 14.

As stated above, tape 14 will stretch to a slight degree and the folded part 16 containing cord 15 will not stretch. This lat- 11 at the junction of the coat and sleeve lining.

The part 16 of the tape 14 containing cord 15 will be anchored at diametrically opposite parts of the armhole as at 20, 20 by stitching by hand or machine. Moreover, part 16 containing cord 15 will be sewed in a snug manner under'the armhole as at 2.1,

that is, by slightly 01' almost imperceptibly pleating the material to which tape 14: 1s sewed, wherebycord 15 will cover slightly more of the material than its own'length. Especially will tape ll be sewed snug, tight or short in front of the armhole from the scye or pit of armhole as at 23 to apoint 24 withinapproximately three inches above front notch 25, whereby cord 15 will aid in providing fullness in front to form the chest 26 of the garment. Furthermore, the tightness of cord 15 will prevent the material at the lower part of'armhole from sagging or balling. On the other hand, said materials will be suspended from bead or cord 15 to thereby enhancethe appearance of the garment. I

Fig. 8 shows the stitches which are sewed adjacent bead 13 thereby fastening tape 1 1 in proper positlon between outside material 5 and lining 8 of the vest,

laving thus described my lnvention,

what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is as follows:

1. In an armhole bead for garments having a sleeve portion and a chest portion, an armhole at the junction of said portion and a cord sewed adjacent said armhole, where by to aid in forming a chest'portion of the garment.

2. In an armhole head for garments having a sleeve portion and a chest portion with an armhole, an unyielding cord sewed under said armhole whereby to aid informing and supporting the chest portionof'thegarment.

ice

3. In an armhole bead'for garments having a sleeve portion and a chest portion with an armhole therebetween, a tape member enclosing a cord sewed adjacent said armhole,;

whereby to aid informing and supporting said chest portion.

at. In an armhole bead for garn'ients having a sleeve portion and a chest portion, and an armhole at the junction of said portions, said sleeve comprises an outsidematerial and an inner trim and said chest portion compriscs'an outside material and an inner trim and an unyielding cord'fastened adjacent the junction of said sleeve and chestportions, whereby to aid in supporting said chest portion. 1

5. In an armhole bead for garments hav armhole at the junction ofsaid portions, said sleeve comprising an outside material and an inner trim and said chest portion comprising, an, outside material and inner trim and a folded tape containing a cord fastened adjacent the junction of said sleeve and chest portions, wherebyto aid in supporting said chest portion.

In testimony whereof I affix mysignature,

FRANK at DUX.

mg a sleeve portion and a chest portion, an 

